New to framing
Introductory guide for teams new to industrial picture framing: core processes, vocabulary, and how automated lines fit together in a modern framing plant.
Factory workflow
Industrial framing production
Professional framing in four steps — mitre cutting, glue, V-nail joining, and rabbet fit-up.
- Mitre 45°
- V-nail joining
- FRL pneumatics
- Rabbet fit-up
- Factory workflow
Your framing workflow in 4 steps
01 — Cut the moulding
Use a double mitre saw to cut frame moulding at precise 45° angles. Even 0.1° of error multiplies across eight cuts.
02 — Apply glue
Apply PVA glue (Type II, moisture-resistant) to the miter face. End-grain absorbs glue quickly — a thin pre-coat prevents a starved joint.
03 — Join the corners
The underpinner drives V-shaped nails upward through the miter joint while the frame is clamped, holding the corner while glue cures.
04 — Fit & finish
Insert glass, mat board, artwork, and backing into the rabbet. Secure with glazier points and seal the back.
The 3 machines every framer needs
Double mitre saw
Cuts both ends simultaneously at 45°. The foundation of accuracy — everything downstream depends on a clean, precise cut.
Underpinner / V-nailer
Pneumatically drives V-shaped nails through the miter joint. Requires compressed air (6–7 bar for hardwood).
Mat cutter / point driver
Cuts mat board at beveled angles and drives glazier points to secure artwork inside the finished frame.
Common mistakes & how to avoid them
Install an FRL unit first
90% of pneumatic failures come from moisture in the air line. Install a Filter-Regulator-Lubricator on your compressor before running any V-nailer.
Never mix V-nail brands
Different brands use different glue melt-points. Mixing brands causes distributor block jams — stick to one brand and size per machine.
Use dry PTFE lubricant only
Never use WD-40 or machine oil on pneumatic passages. Oil attracts sawdust and forms sludge. Use dry PTFE spray on moving parts.
The business card test
Slide a business card between the frame and clamp pad — it should require effort to pull out but not tear. Too easy = insufficient pressure; immovable = too much.
Hardwood vs. softwood pressure
Hardwoods need 6–7 bar; softwoods 4–5 bar; MDF 5–6 bar. Adjust the regulator when switching material types.
Diagnose the gap location
Gap at the front face (top open) = insufficient clamping. Gap at the back (bottom open) = cutting angle over 45°.
New framer FAQs
What air compressor do I need for a V-nailer?
Minimum 50-litre tank delivering 6–7 bar sustained. Use ≥6 mm air line diameter and always fit an FRL unit between compressor and machine.
Why are my corners not flush?
Often moulding warp — check by laying sticks on a flat surface. Switch to triangular felt pads if the profile is curved.
My V-nailer keeps jamming — where do I start?
Clean the distributor block with IPA. Inspect the driver blade tip for burrs. Confirm correct nail size and single brand. Clean every 5,000 nails.
Hardwood vs. softwood V-nails?
HW nails for oak/maple; SW for pine/cedar; MDF-specific nails for composite. Mismatch causes buckling or proud nails.
How do I stop chipping on mitre cuts?
Install a zero clearance insert, use a Hi-ATB negative-hook blade (80–100 teeth), and keep the blade sharp.
Essential framing terms
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Rabbet / Rebate | Inner groove holding glass, mat, artwork, and backing. |
| Miter joint | 45° end-to-end joint — reinforce with V-nails because end grain is weak. |
| V-nail / Wedge | V-shaped fastener driven upward through the miter joint. |
| Driver blade | Striking pin inside a V-nailer — high-wear consumable. |
| FRL unit | Filter + Regulator + Lubricator — mandatory for pneumatic machines. |
| Starved joint | Glue absorbed by end grain before bonding — apply a thin sizing coat first. |
| Runout | Blade wobble causing chatter and wavy cut faces. |
| Kerf | Width of material removed by the saw blade. |